Sunday, December 25, 2016

Silent Night, Holy Nighy

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On this Christmas day I give thanks for all the blessings of 2016.  My family and friends far and wide. My health, despite a leg fracture in May.  My freedom to travel and visit faraway places.  I hope all your wishes come true in 2017. I especially pray for peace around the world and that we experience the one human family that we are part of creating.  Today I enjoyed a Xmas concert with hundreds of others singing carols and calling forth a greater humanity through our voices. Well, I was probably the only one singing. The Latvians need to let down their hair a bit.  Amen!!

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Christmas Spirit

The Latvians are just as filled with the spirit of Christmas as I remember growing up. Christmas music, mostly from America, filling the airwaves. A neighbor below me plays carols day and night. Lights strung up over the streets and adorning the trees in the park. Piparkūkās, a spicy flat cookie that I've been addicted to and are sold in bulk at the RIMI markets.  Live trees being sold at the market. Where do city dwellers plant these after the holidays, I wonder?   No Christmas would be complete without a performance of the Nutcracker Suite.  Matiss is heading off to Australia for the holidays and Antra is in Toronto with her family. We Whatsapp'd at the Archive this week so I could send her photos of documents written in Russian. It worked but we didn't discover anything new.  My family tree continues to grow. Several new limbs  have emerged and existing ones sprout new branches. My list of places to visit has expanded to several farm communities. Who knows, I may discover ancestors still working the land like centuries ago.  One hopes that the Communists didn't destroy everything that is dear to this nation.

       Cheerful street scene in Old Riga   
  Nutcracker Suite performed by Latvian National Ballet

  Wooden tree at the Christmas market--lots of local artisans




Monday, December 5, 2016

Gaismas ceļā (Path of Light)

I must say the Latvians are big on metaphor and last night's concert was no exception.  The concert was performed by over 300 musicians playing a traditional Latvian stringed instrument called the kokle.  There are basically two types: a small laptop version with about 10 strings, and a large pedestal type with up to 30 strings for playing in concerts like the one last night. It sounded like an orchestra of stringed instruments. Very powerful. I've included a link to one of my favorite kokle players. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAwRI1Ahzvw




Before 
After




Tuesday, November 29, 2016

My Ancestry

One of the projects I'm involved in while in Latvia is to further the research on my ancestors.  Back in 1940, a family tree was done on my paternal grandmother Bone family, dating back to 1707.  It was quite a find in the family stuff after my parents died.  So I'm learning how to navigate the archives here in Riga and have discovered some relatives.  The most challenging part is going through the scanned church records without knowing which church to look in.  I am using the services of Antra, a Latvian-Canadian who has been living here for the last two years. She has a wealth of knowledge and expertise in the field of geneology.  I just discovered that the last place my father lived is on the corner where I'm staying in Riga and my mother lived within a half mile from here.  They could have crossed paths before they even met years later in the DP camp. 


Monday, November 21, 2016

Staro Festival of Lights

This past weekend was great fun. Not only celebrating Latvia's Independence, but walking the streets of Riga and catching all the colorful displays and creativity with the annual Frstival of Lights.   A big reason for living in the heart of this great city is the opportunity to partake of the many festivities, just a short walk from my apartment. 

    Larger than life floral displays

   House of the Blackheads



  One of many bridges crossing canal
   Laser light show
  Freedom Monument 
   National museum of art 
    St Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Church

   St Gertrude's Ev Lutheran Church




Saturday, November 19, 2016

Latvian National Holidays

Image result for latvian independence day 2016  The Latvians are big on celebrations and weather poses no deterrent to getting out for the festivities. The patriotism and energy is palpable Last Friday was Lāĉplēšis Day, a memorial day for soldiers who fought for the independence of Latvia. It is celebrated on November 11 marking the victory over the West Russian Volunteer Army at the battle of Riga in 1919,  during the Latvian War of Independence. A popular Lāčplēsis Day tradition since 1988 is placing candles on and by the wall of Riga Castle. The name of the memorial day comes from the protagonist of the Latvian national epic, Lāčplēsis.  It's also the name of the street where I live.

liveriga.com

Lāčplēša diena

Yesterday, November 18,  marked the Latvian day of Independence.  Latvian Independence Day commemorates declaration of independence of the Republic of Latvia from German and Russian occupation on November 18, 1918 after the end of the First World War. The country remained an independent state until the Second World War, when forces from the Soviet Union occupied the country on 17 June 1940.  Like the other Baltic republics, full independence from Soviet Russia occurred on 21 August 1991. The restoration of Independence of the Republic of Latvia was proclaimed on 4 May 1990. This second independence declaration is commemorated in the Restoration of Independence of the Republic of Latvia holiday on 4 May each year.

The parade of arms where the President of Latvia acknowledges each branch of the military.




I attended a great concert last night by a Latvian folk band Raxtu Raxti.  The audience really got into the spirit, clapping and singing along. The concert ended just in time to watch the fireworks display from the bridge over the Daugavas River.

Image result for fireworks on latvian  independence day


Nothing but Gray Skies

It's been awhile since I posted and I've had several inquiries. Firstly,  I've been recuperating from a really bad sinus and bronchial infection.  Doesn't bode well for the weather here. It's been wet and not cold enough to generate snow consistently. So I've been hibernating in my cozy and warm apartment most days.

When I  first arrived,  I bought several tickets to the Latvian National Opera and Ballet, which is internationally recognized and generated such great sopranos like Elīna Garanĉa and Kristine Opolais, whose husband is a conductor.  I saw a performance of Verdi's Rigoletto, which I thoroughly enjoyed.  My mother was an opera lover and there was always some music while growing up, Although I don't enjoy the same passion for opera she did, I do appreciate it from time to time, much like Shakespearean plays in small doses. To switch things up, last week  I attended the ballet of Peer Gynt.  Like Rigoletto, I familiarized myself with the story so I had some idea of the plot.  Well they lost me when Peer goes off to Egypt and meets up with the Sphinx.

More on the culture later.





Friday, November 4, 2016

Nothing but blue skies.....

Haven't seen those in a week and as I watch the snow fall, the coffee shop is playing this song. How ironic--everywhere I go travelling, they play music from the US.

I move into my apartment on Monday which is in a great location--just minutes from Old Riga, museums, shops, cafes and restaurants.  Clothes wise I am ill-prepared for this weather, especially foot gear and outerwear.  In the meantime, layers ate working just fine. 

View from my room this morning

Wednesday, November 2, 2016

Riga Update

Almost a week since I arrived and I'm awaiting the availability of an apartment. The original place I found on VRBO was a bit misleading and then the owner wanted to raise the price, so I began my search anew.  I finally found a place on rentinriga.com which will rent short term. It's the same problem I had in Spain finding short term rentals at an affordable price.  Meanwhile I've reacquainted myself with Riga. I was here in 2013 for the Song and Dance Festival, a much different place--buzzing with tourists in mid-summer.  Riga is still beautiful in the fall/winter, although a bit wet and dreary compared to Spain. 

 In addition to LIDO, a cafeteria where you can get a decent meal for under 10€, the university is a few blocks away, and the food is better and cheaper. Not as many choices, but who can complain.  It's nice being at the pulse of Riga and I've had lots of practice with the language. They're all amazed that a person raised in America can speak the language.  I assured them that most of us first generation Americans grew up speaking the language at home.  Some even went to Saturday school to learn to read and write and Sunday school for religious teaching.  

The canal separating Old Riga from the Center
University in background  taken from Opera and Ballet Hall. 

 Many pedestrian bridges across canal

     Lido cafeteria  

Potato pancakes, salmon and eggs

Thursday, October 27, 2016

Riga at long last

Took two days to arrive in Riga due to flight delays, missed connections and te-booking. I will get to exercise my travel insurance once again.  I was able to purchase an annual multi-trip policy for a reasonable price.  When in Europe do like the Euripean travelers.  I've had lots of people to learn from this year and expect there's more to discover. 

 
In spite of its bad customer service record, they did attempt their best.  A group of 18 Estonians grabbed up all the available seats on both Ryanair flights to Riga today. A nice bmch. I wished them well.  

I'm excited to practice my Latvian, which is far better than my Spanish.  I visited Latvia three years ago for the Song and Dance Festival. An amazing event that led up to getting my citizenship.  Riga will host the festival again in 2018.  Put it on your calendar. 🇦🇹✈️

Tuesday, October 25, 2016

My Latvian Connection

During my travels these past two years, many people ask about my life and connection to Europe.   I have to admit that for most of my life, I have been reluctant to mention that I am Latvian by ancestry. I am a first generation American, which means that I am the first generation born of immigrant parents.   Most of  my life, people didn't know that Latvia existed, let alone where in the heck was Latvia?  It's  the case even today that in Spain  I have to determine how each country refers to Latvia.  In Spain, its Lettonia, in Holland, it's Lettland.  Why are the Baltics still in obscurity?  Now in my adulthood, I find it to be a nice conversation to have with people.   An icebreaker, if you will.  

The journey began many decades ago when we found our planet  in a second world war.  The Nazis had invaded the Baltics and established their dominance in Europe. But Stalin would not be undone and began to usurp his power.  The Baltics got caught in the middle of this raging battle over territory and world dominance.  My mother and father, who at this point did not know each other, independently decided to flee the advancement of Stalin's Red Army.  It was choosing between the lesser of two evils at this point and as the Nazis retreated, those Latvian citizens who could retreated with them, under their protection.   So, in 1945 my parents found themselves 'displaced persons' in Germany.  By the end of the war, the Allies had set up camps in Germany to take care of all the refugees from the Baltics, and elsewhere.  My parents met in the camp in Hanau, Germany and fell in love and eventually got married and bore a child, Karina.   Meanwhile, they applied for emigration to the US, which at the time had a quota system--they would only accept a certain number of immigrants each year. Five years later in early 1950, they were granted immigration staus and boarded a ship for the US.  My sister, Karina,  was two at the time.    

Growing up as a Latvian was difficult  at times.  My parents had heavy accents and I was sometimes embarrassed to bring friends home, having to explain their accents and my origins.  At that time in my life I just wanted to "fit in".   It would be many years later that I'd find myself accepting my heritage and then would eventually embrace it.  The pivotal moment was in 2013 when I visited Latvia for the first time and attended the Latvian Song and Dance Festival in Riga with my dear Latvian friend Alissa and her mother Vija. While there,  I really connected with my heritage and had the opportunity to experience this culture of song and dance that has kept the Latvian people connected with their roots,  even while under Soviet occupation.  

Then in 2013, the Latvian government enacted a law which would enable ancestors of Latvian refugees to apply for citizenship.  They had enacted a similar "law" in 1992, shortly after the Soviet bloc dismantled and Latvia once again became a republic.   When I heard that I could apply for dual citizenship, I began the process without any hesitation.  I didn't know where this  would lead me, but I intuitively knew this was something I needed to do.  In March of 2014, I received my "personal number" and in September of 2014 I obtained an EU passport.   So now I'm travelling under my EU passport while in Europe and enjoying unrestricted travel.  


Sunday, October 23, 2016

Adios to Spain, Sveiks to Latvia

It's been a time of integration having returned from a memorable trip in South Africa.  I've been staying with Jan and Linda here in Frigiliana in the country. 

Shakti the family cat

What a magnificent view of the campo. 

Local goatherd moves his goats every day between 4-5. 


Dinner at Jan's restaurant, Al Fuente for great tapas. 


Yoga on the beach with Linda. 


I head to Riga on Wednesday for a month or more.  Found a loft apartment in a good central location.  It's almost winter there, so it'll be quite an adjustment from all this great sun and warmth of the past months. Stay tuned. 

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Out of Africa

My last days here visiting Keuger NP and surrounding areas has been the highlight of my trip and a nice way to finish my stay. I would definitely return, but there is so much more of Africa to explore. Many people I met are heading north to other countries for more safari adventures.  

Heading back to Malaga, I will meet up with Murray, a friend from my retreat group who is in Spain  for seven  weeks. Should be fun to catch up with a familiar face. 

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Big Five on Rand Notes

Just read this on Wikupedia. Here's what I've got so far. 





The 200 rand must have the leopard.