Christmas 2017 in Spain

This is my first Christsmas in a warm climate and it took some getting used to. Nerja was decorated with lights and trees and festivities.  I enjoyed a hike on Christmas Day with an international group. After walking along the cliffs, we landed on the beach for lunch. I split a freshly caught sea bass which was out of this world.

Salceda to Santiago

I arrived in Santiago yesterday and it feels so familiar.  I rejoined with many pilgrims I'd walked with over the last two weeks.  It was great to see familiar faces and compare notes and share the excitement of completing the Camino Primitivo.   Santiago was less crowded than I expected but the Sunday pilgrim mass was standing room only.  The pilgrim office has moved to a new location and more amenable to the queue that formed to receive our compostela.  I'll spend a few days here, then head back to Nerja where I've rented an apartment through years end.  Walking the Camino has always led to some new discoveries and I'll have time to reflect on those and post them in an epilogue, so stay tuned. 

Pilgrims monument just outside Santisgo

New Camino amigos toasting completion

The cathedral still under renovation

Incense hanging in the air after mass

My favorite tapas bar is going strong

Melide to Salceda

Today was a long day trying to make up some ground. Caught up with Terry, Gary and Sebastian. Stayed at an out of the way albergue with a pilgrim dinner

As Seixas to Melide

We joined up with the Camino Francais at Melide. The energy is high as pilgrims from the Camino Norte, Primitivo and Francais  converge for the final stages. It was three years ago that I walked the Camino Francais and remember the buildup to arriving in Santiago de Compostela for the first time. In 2015, I finished the Camino Portuguese and now the Camino Prirmitivo.  

It was the first day with rain, which started at about 10:00. But I arrived in Melide before 1:00 and happy to get dry and warm. 

Lugo-San Ramon-As Seixas

We had two rather easy days in lieu of having a rest day in Lugo. Terry and Gary, a couple from San Francusco have been steady Camino amigos since Fonsegrafa. The group has dispersed as those on a tight schedule forge ahead to Santiago.  Those who can, cruise into Santiago, the last 100km of our journey.  We encounter new people, just starting off in Lugo.  

Leaving Lugo before the fog lifts. 

Mindy the Camino Perro is back with us

A beautiful autumn day at our albergue

A mom and her two pups

Still nursing!!!

Castroverdes to Lugo

Lugo is a beautiful city, surrounded by 3km of Roman Walls. I arrived early and had a look around before lunch and sitting in the square when other pilgrims joined me.   The albergue was quite full as Lugo is 100 km from Santiago and the "official" starting point to receive your Camino Primitivo compostela. 

Roman walls

 Carhedral in Lugo

Beautiful scallop shells marking the Way

A misty morning over the river heading out of Lugo

O Cadavo to Castroverdes

Just as we said goodbye to one group of peregrinos in O Cadavo, a new group shows up in Castroverdes. It's Sunday and the markets close early, so we stock up  for tomorrow's journey to Lugo.  More German, Swiss and Belgian walkers show up in our albergue. 

Church in Villabade 

Chestnut tree cut down and now a memorial to peregrinos 

Beautiful fountain in front of church

Grandes de Salime-Fonsegrada-O Cadavo

Another beautiful day but long days in sunshine and heat. Lots of ascents and descents so the body is getting a workout. I'm having to carry extra food and water due to the lack of rest stops so I've started to have my bag transported ahead by the postal service. I'm getting more comfortable they my bag will actually arrive and I'll be able to locate it.  

A Fonsagrada is in Galicia so the customs have changed, the language is slightly different. We're over the halfway mark to Santiago. 

 Friendly pooches

Last view of Asturias

Entering Gslicia

The fog settled in the valley all morning

Getting ready for Halloween

Campiello-Berducedo-Grandes de Salime

The group is back together again plus a new group of pilgrims from Germany, the Czech Republic, Spain and Colombia.  The walk from Campiello took us over the original Hospitales route with incredible views. We got an early start and watched the sun rise. 

Lookout over dam at Grandes de Salime

Tineo to Campiello

Today was a much needed short day to give the body a chance to restore.  So I said goodbye to everyone but Paul who felt a need to slow down too.  So we stopped in Campiello, known for its hospitality. We enjoyed a five course lunch, laundry and sitting in the sun.  

True to the Camino experience, the Angels arrived when needed.  I stopped at a fuente to replenish my water and was greeted by some local elders and told "no agua".  So one of the men filled up my water bottle from his house. Meanwhile a village woman came by and offered me an apple, peeled  and cored it for me. That's the spirit of the Camino. 

A beautiful misty morning 

A small herd being moved to greener pastures

Mindy the Camino Perro.  

Grado to Salas

A very long day with lots of ups and fiwns but I finally found my stride.  The group that convened at the albergue last night was quite special. We created a meal together and our hospitsliero Ann is from Nrw Jetsey, 75 and going strong. She's quite the inspiration and many of us who've down multiple Caminos are considering the role of hospitaliero.  We're all together again in Dalas as we get to know one another and form that instant Camino bond. 

One of the monasteries becomes an albergue

Our Camino family

Hospitaliero Ann and Sebastian

Buen Camino!!! 

Salas to Tineo

Views of the countryside are stunning as we proceed farther west into higher elevations. Tineo is another beautiful village tucked into the hills. Our albergue for 12€ is a luxury accommodation.  Semi private berths and a sauna and Turkish bath. Will try their pilgrim menu tonight. 

Different  kind of marker

Outskirts of Tineo

View from the bar where we had tapas